How Many Amps Should A Car Blower Motor Draw

Earlier I begin, here is the kicker: I asked for and got for Christmas a seemingly overnice digital test meter(DC) for cars, including amps testing adequacy, from micro to total amps. The kicker is, the range merely goes to 10 amps!!!! $&%^#%!!@

Here is the deal. When I bought my used Dodge, it had a toggle switch to operate the blower fan on high (resistors bypassed and only have loftier at present). All seemed well. Until it burned upwards. (no fire though) When it burned up, it left the toggle hanging there, swinging,(recollect John Anderson) with no more tension with the internal rocker/contacts.

So I went out and bought a large 50 amp ane. The blower excursion is fused to xxx amp. That'll do it, for certain! Beep. Wrong. The same fate befell that ane.

Now I improve tell y'all how it is wired as that can definitely affect across just an amp-depict issue. The blower is wired to the switch with xvi/ii lamp-type cord. It says it right on the brownish cord. AND, when I wired up the new 50 amp toggle switch I made sure the stranded wire was wrapped effectually the large headed screws that are attached to nice and thick brass-like terminals, expert. End of problem? Nope, fried that one the same mode. The toggle switch began to experience hot at times.

Then I go buy some other one, identical to it(kinda dumb, eh?) except they had no screw on the spade terminals. So I had to crimp on spades. I did a real good job. Never felt heat on the metal toggle itself, like I did simply before the other 1 failed. Yet, at that place we become. The other day, the blower cut off and I felt the toggle switch, and there she was, dangling in that location once again!.

PITB, as I have to driblet bottom of dash panel to get new toggle through hole.

So this fourth dimension I said enough is plenty and I filed the crimps off the toggle (made in China) and what do I discover? The actuator of the toggle is plastic that rides the metal contact rocker. The plastic actuator tip melts from heat enough to lose tension confronting the rocker! Low melt betoken plastic!

So yesterday forenoon after dropping the lower dash again and removing the toggle switch, I said I am not going to buy another one of these (bought at machine store) pieces of yous know what again. This time I decided to try an elcheapo typical dwelling house center lite switch. That'll do information technology considering those low-cal switches even work in houses where they may power a circuit that has infinite heaters and hair dryers, shop vacs(talking near a powerful blower!), etc. on it that draw lots of amps.

So I did not mount the switch this time. Information technology is dangling at that place to where I can feel the wires(this time) and the switch. After about 20 minutes, that switch and wire most it go quite warm! Ahaaaaa. But why?

The wires one time again are wrapped good at the screws. 12 volts X 30 amp fuse = only 360 watts, right? Or am I convoluted in my thinking some how? Yet that 16/two gauge wire and the light switch can take MUCH higher describe, as stated, no trouble, in AC.

Is at that place something almost DC current where the rules change? Like considering the current is constant?, instead of on-off-on -off 60 cycles, liek Ac?

And why hasn't at that place been whatsoever problem at where the wire is connceted to the blower, nor an result with the bottom 30 amp fuse ever blowing? Why is that wire getting so warm and supple?

???????

BTW, the blower runs smooth and no bearing noises. Remember one time once again to really consider why toggle switch oestrus/ failure and Non at blower hook up itself, nor fuse! Is at that place something virtually stranded wire, that is the key here?

Source: https://www.doityourself.com/forum/electrical-ac-dc/416524-dc-car-blower-motor-drawing-too-many-amps-what.html

Posted by: ligginsrebt1940.blogspot.com

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